A summer resort, a portrayal of half of the history of the Qing Dynasty.
Museum entrance of Chengde Mountain Resort.
More than 300 years ago, Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty went on an inspection tour to the northern border and left the fortress. In order to train the Eight Banners of military skills and pacify and control Mongolia, he set up the Mulan Paddock on the grassland outside the Great Wall as a hunting ground for the “Autumn Hunting Ceremony.” Thus, “Mulan Autumn Hunting” became the ancestral system and family law of the Qing court. Autumn hunting means hunting in autumn. In ancient times, there were many differences between nomadic people and farming people. Compared with the farming people’s chicken, dogs, mulberry, and hemp, nomadic people were more unrestrained and had an extremely strong interest in hunting in nature. Every year, the hunters of nomadic people could always return with full loads. And hunting in each season had different names. As it is said in “Zuo Zhuan”: “Spring hunting for inspection, summer hunting for protecting crops, autumn hunting, and winter hunting are all carried out in the spare time of farming to discuss affairs.”
Chengde Mountain Resort: Famous 打卡点 “Rehe Spring”.
To facilitate the emperor’s rest and handling of state affairs along the way during autumn hunting, many temporary imperial palaces were built between Beijing and the paddock. The Mountain Resort is the largest one among them. In 1703, the construction of the Mountain Resort officially began. Through the reigns of Emperor Kangxi, Emperor Yongzheng, and Emperor Qianlong, it took 89 years and was completed in 1792. Covering an area of 5.64 million square meters, which is about equal to eight Forbidden Cities. It is the largest existing imperial garden in the world. It is known as one of the four famous gardens in China together with the Summer Palace in Beijing, the Humble Administrator’s Garden in Suzhou, and the Lingering Garden. I have visited the Summer Palace many times before and have also been to the Humble Administrator’s Garden and the Lingering Garden. This time, I have completed the achievement of visiting the four famous gardens in China.
Museum entrance of Chengde Mountain Resort.
The Mountain Resort is located and designed according to China’s geographical features. The topography of the mountainous area in the northwest, the lake area in the southeast, and the plain area in the north constitutes a miniature of China’s territory. The garden-making of the resort takes nature as its model without artificial decoration. Buildings are hidden among mountains, waters, plants, and trees. Jiangnan water towns, vast grasslands, and mountain wild scenery are gathered in one garden, forming a magnificent landscape that integrates the beauty of the south and the majesty of the north and gathers famous scenic spots from all over the country in one garden. The Qing emperors entertained vassal states here, showed kindness to distant people, gave banquets and had fun together, and pacified the border areas. Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong spent about half a year in Chengde every year. The Mountain Resort is not only a profound garden art work but also became the second political center of the Qing Dynasty.
The plaque “Mountain Resort” inscribed by Emperor Kangxi himself.
On the inner Meridian Gate in the main palace area of the Mountain Resort is a plaque inscribed by Emperor Kangxi himself. Careful you must have noticed that there is an extra horizontal stroke on the character “avoid.” This obvious wrong character has been hanging on the gate of the Mountain Resort for more than three hundred years, and no one dares to correct it. Why did Kangxi add an extra horizontal stroke to the character “avoid”? It is said that the emperor was taboo about the character “avoid” because it has the meaning of escaping. We are here to escape the heat, not to seek refuge. Therefore, an extra horizontal stroke was added. Another theory is that this writing method first appeared in seal script and official script and was commonly seen in calligraphy works of the Northern Wei Dynasty and the Tang Dynasty. And Kangxi was proficient in the Four Books and Five Classics, so he adopted the writing method of seal script and official script. No matter what the reason is, this small “mistake” has become a symbol of the Mountain Resort and has been passed down to this day, presenting the personality and foresight of Emperor Kangxi.
Chengde Mountain Resort: Divided into palace area, lake area, plain area and mountain forest area.
The Mountain Resort is really too big. It is divided into four areas: the palace area, the lake area, the plain area, and the mountain forest area. The palace area is the main palace area of the resort and is the place where the emperor handles state affairs and rests. Now it is open as a museum. The conventional route to visit the resort is to enter through the Lizheng Gate and first visit the palace area.
Bronze lions outside the inner Meridian Gate of Chengde Mountain Resort.
The bronze lions outside the inner Meridian Gate are not as majestic and domineering as those elsewhere. Instead, they have drooping ears and eyelids, half-rolled tongues. They are a bit silly and a bit cute. They are rather like stupid and cute puppies. It is said that this is done because inside is the emperor’s office area. Reminding visiting officials not to look at what they shouldn’t see, not to listen to what they shouldn’t hear, and not to talk nonsense about what they shouldn’t say.
Enamelware of Chengde Mountain Resort.
The halls along the central axis are all arranged with restoration displays, showing many court cultural relics and treasures, including clocks and watches, hanging screens, porcelain, enamel, glass, Buddha statues, hunting equipment for autumn hunting, etc., allowing people to feel the profound royal culture of the Qing Dynasty.
The golden nanmu hall behind the inner Meridian Gate is the main hall of the Mountain Resort. The emperor held celebration ceremonies here, received leaders of various ethnic groups, princes, ministers, and foreign envoys. The hall has seven bays in width and three bays in depth. It has a single-eaved hip-and-gable roof. Hanging in the hall is the plaque inscribed by Emperor Kangxi with the words “Simplicity and Sincerity.” The hall is built of nanmu and is extremely magnificent. There is still the fragrance of nanmu until now. What’s even more amazing is that even in midsummer when the heat waves are rolling outside, the hall is cool and pleasant. As you approach the door, a cool air rushes towards you. I don’t know what kind of black technology is used. It seems that the word “escaping the heat” of the resort is really not in vain! The nanmu materials used in the hall are very exquisite. According to expert estimates, each pillar of the hall is currently valued at 2.7 billion yuan. It is very precious and astonishing! Now the bottoms are also protected by glass covers.
Main hall of Chengde Mountain Resort.
Behind “Simplicity and Sincerity” is the “Four-Knowledge Study.” It is a five-bay hall. Emperor Kangxi once named it “According to Purity and Vastness.” In 1786 during the reign of Emperor Qianlong, it was additionally titled “Four-Knowledge Study.” Surrounded by corridors, the courtyard is secluded. Before and after the emperor went to court, he would change clothes here. Sometimes he would also summon princes, ministers, and leaders of ethnic minorities here. Now some rare treasures are exhibited here, mainly including imperial official kiln porcelain, enamelware, imperial carriages, etc.
Enamelware of Chengde Mountain Resort.
Behind the “Four-Knowledge Study” is the nineteen-room waiting room, also known as the “Long Live Waiting Room.” There are a total of nineteen rooms arranged in a row. The middle three rooms are set up as a Buddhist hall. Emperor Qianlong inscribed “Metaphor of the Buddhist Raft.” It is a place where attendants wait for assignments. Taking the waiting room as the boundary, the main palace area is divided into the front court and the rear sleeping quarters. Here there are ten sets of stone drums. Originally made in the 11th year of Xian Gong of the Qin State in the Warring States period, they were discovered in Baoji, Shaanxi Province in the first year of Zhenguan of Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty. They are named because they are narrow on top and wide on the bottom and look like drums. They are currently stored in the Palace Museum in Beijing. In 1789 during the 54th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign, to protect the stone drums, Emperor Qianlong ordered people to select stones and re-carve them. There are two sets in the same style. They are placed in the Imperial College in Beijing and the Confucian Temple in Rehe respectively. The stone drums exhibited here are those stored in the Confucian Temple in Rehe.
Plaque of “Coolness Amidst Misty Waves”, the first hall in the rear sleeping quarters inscribed by Emperor Kangxi.
The plaque of the first hall in the rear sleeping quarters, the “Coolness Amidst Misty Waves” hall, was still inscribed by Emperor Kangxi. Inside the hall, there are a bright hall, a warm chamber, and a Buddhist hall. It is the sleeping quarters of the Qing emperors. Emperor Jiaqing and Emperor Xianfeng both passed away here.
This is a solemn place. In 1860, the British and French allied forces invaded Beijing and burned the Old Summer Palace. Emperor Xianfeng fled in a hurry to Rehe under the pretext of the Mulan Autumn Hunting. He left Prince Yi to stay in the capital and supervise the peace negotiations. Emperor Xianfeng approved the humiliating “Treaty of Beijing” on the kang table in the western warm chamber of the “Coolness Amidst Misty Waves” hall, causing China to cede a large amount of territory.
Back then, the reason why Emperor Kangxi added an extra horizontal stroke to the character “avoid” on the plaque was that he was taboo about the character “avoid” and deliberately emphasized that coming to the mountain resort was to escape the heat, not to seek refuge. But more than a hundred years later, his descendants really came here to seek refuge. It seems that there are indeed some mysterious and invisible forces existing in the unseen. It is hard to explain clearly. History is so fascinating.
Cloud Mountain Scenic Tower of Chengde Mountain Resort.
The Cloud Mountain Scenic Tower has two floors. The most unique thing about it is that it has no stairs. People go upstairs by relying on the rockery path in front of the tower. On the first floor, there is a stage for the emperor and empress to watch operas. On the second floor, there is a Buddhist hall. Emperor Qianlong inscribed “Lotus Chamber.” It is used by the emperor and empress to offer sacrifices to the moon and pray for blessings.
Lake area of Chengde Mountain Resort.
After exiting the Xiuyun Gate, the visit to the palace area is over. The remaining mountain forest area, plain area, and lake area all require taking corresponding mountain forest vehicles, plain vehicles, and boats respectively. The prices are 60 yuan, 40 yuan, and 70 yuan per person. You can purchase tickets by scanning the QR code at the station.
The plain area was the wilderness where emperors galloped on horses in the past. There are yurts, Chunhao Pavilion, Yongyou Temple, etc. The lake area gathers famous garden scenes from all over the country. There are waterside pavilions and platforms, and beautiful lakes and mountains. You can experience the charm of Jiangnan. Although these two areas are very large, as long as there is enough time and good physical strength, you can also visit on foot. As for the mountain forest area, it is said that in order to prevent fires, tourists are currently not allowed to hike up the mountain. They must take transportation vehicles and circle around the mountain forest. There are three sightseeing stops on the way. The vehicles circulate back and forth. As long as you have bought a ticket, you can take it at will.
Since the mountain forest area allows you to overlook the entire panorama of the Little Potala Palace, there are very many people going up the mountain. Waiting in line for the vehicle took a full hour. There are two types of vehicles. One is an ordinary van, and the other is a modified van without windows. It is cooler in summer and has a better view. The two types of vehicles circulate randomly. Which one you can take depends entirely on luck.
As soon as I got on the vehicle, I happened to encounter several little deer. They are already used to humans. But don’t be complacent. You are in a good time. If it were in the past, they would have been hunted by the emperor long ago during autumn hunting!
Mountain forest vehicle of Chengde Mountain Resort.
The first stop is “Surrounded by Cloudy Mountains.” There is a sixteen-column single-eaved pyramid-shaped square pavilion. Ascending it, you can have a panoramic view of Chengde. In the past, the Qing emperors often came here to climb high and look far, drink wine and compose poems. Unfortunately, I didn’t get off at this stop.
The second stop is the “Two-Horse Path.” It was a horse path for soldiers to patrol on horseback in the past. Only one horse can pass at a time. The northern palace wall is widened into a platform for two horses to pass each other. It is called the “Two-Horse Path.” Standing on the Two-Horse Path, you can overlook the entire panorama of the Little Potala Palace. The city wall under your feet is like the Great Wall winding and undulating. In the distance, there are layers of mountains with unlimited scenery.
Surrounded by Cloudy Mountains, offering a panoramic view of Chengde Mountain Resort.
The third stop is “Green Maples and Green Islands.” It is named after the lush maple trees here. There are three rooms in the gate hall. It is a place where the Qing emperor rested when touring the mountain area.
Portrait of Emperor Kangxi.
In front of the portrait of Emperor Kangxi, there are piles of offerings, including banknotes, coins, fruits, biscuits, and cigarettes. Well, then you should give a lighter. Giving cigarettes without a lighter. I’m afraid the ancestors will also blame you.
Offerings by tourists in front of the portrait of Emperor Kangxi.
Entering the gate, a moon gate is opened on the opposite wall, dividing the courtyard into two parts. Passing through the moon gate leads directly to the main hall.
Moon gate.
On the southeast side outside the gate hall is a side hall named “Rosy Cloud Mark” by Emperor Kangxi. It implies that the rosy clouds are projected like javelins. In front of the hall, there is a couplet: “Several layers of thin curtains are like a painting scroll. The distant mountains on three sides bring in greenery.” The “Rosy Cloud Mark” hall is full of rosy clouds, but it is a cold palace. It turns out that Emperor Qianlong had a beloved concubine named Jila. Emperor Qianlong was extremely fond of her, which naturally aroused much jealousy. But Jila, relying on her favor, was arrogant. She actually secretly revised the memorials approved by Emperor Qianlong. In a rage, Emperor Qianlong banished Jila to the cold palace. But fearing that she would be neglected, he just sent her to the Rosy Cloud Mark hall in the Mountain Resort. Who knew that Jila was resolute and unyielding. She refused to eat or drink. After three days, she died of starvation.
“Rosy Cloud Mark” hall named by Emperor Kangxi.
The platform on the top was where the emperor climbed high and enjoyed the moon during the Mid-Autumn Festival in the past. In 1751, Yongyou Temple was built. Inside the temple, a stupa was built imitating the Liuhe Pagoda in Hangzhou. The stupa body is not painted. The gilded spire on top shines. It is in the same frame with the distant Qingchui Peak and Toad Rock. Ascending and viewing, the surrounding wilderness is flat and open, making people’s minds broad and suddenly inspired.
Stupa.
Coming down from the mountain forest area, one arrives at the lake area. In the lake area, there are scattered islands and rippling blue waves. One can look at the “Water Heart Pavilion” in the distance while crossing the Zhijing Yun Embankment imitating the Su Causeway in West Lake to reach the Ruyi Island, the earliest “palace” in the Mountain Resort. One can also look across the lake at the Jinshan Island built imitating the Jinshan Temple in Zhenjiang. The beautiful scenery of Jiangnan is even more charming under the setting of the Mountain Resort.
Lake area.
The Misty Rain Tower on the Qinglian Island was built by Emperor Qianlong imitating the Misty Rain Tower on the Yuanyang Island in Nanhu Lake, Jiaxing. This tower has five bays in width, two floors up and down, and windows on all sides. Under the eaves on the front, there is a golden plaque with cloud dragons inscribed by Emperor Qianlong. On the second floor, one can overlook the surrounding scenery by leaning on the railing. Here was the filming location of “Shu Fang Zhai” of “Princess Returning Pearl.”
Misty Rain Tower: Built by Emperor Qianlong imitating the Misty Rain Tower on Yuanyang Island in Nanhu Lake, Jiaxing.
In the early stage of the establishment of the Mountain Resort, Emperor Kangxi cultivated and planted dozens of mu of farmland named “Melon Garden.” Various crops such as grains, vegetables, and melons were planted. The purpose was for crop rotation. In the past, there was a rosewood throne in the Pufutian Congyue Pavilion for the emperor to rest when walking and hunting and viewing the farmland.
Gate of “Melon Garden”.
In the northeast corner, there is a clear spring, namely the famous Rehe Spring. This is the shortest river in China. In spring, the spring water is tinkling. In midsummer, there are floating duckweeds everywhere. In the cold winter months, it does not freeze. It is indeed a strange sight. So it is called Rehe. There is a saying that “Washing your hands by the Rehe Spring brings good luck to you every year.” When you come to Rehe, you must wash your hands in the river.
Chengde Mountain Resort: Famous 打卡点 “Rehe Spring”.
Gradually, the sky is getting late. The setting sun reflects thousands of rays of rosy clouds by the lake. The profound garden art and the rich cultural heritage. The harmony, simplicity, and tranquility of the Mountain Resort complement the clashing of arms of the Mulan Autumn Hunting.
They are both a microcosm of the prosperous times of Kangxi and Qianlong and a historical witness of the unification of China and the transformation of the world.
The setting sun reflects thousands of rays of rosy clouds by the lake.
