The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple are located 1.5 kilometers northwest of the ancient city of Dali. They face the Yingle Peak of Cangshan Mountain in the west and Erhai Lake in the east. The three pagodas are composed of one large pagoda and two smaller ones, presenting a stable tripod-like posture. From a distance, they are outstandingly elegant and extraordinary, being one of the beautiful scenes of Cangshan and Erhai.
Gate of the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple scenic area
The historical Chongsheng Temple was originally built during the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty and reached its peak during the Dali Kingdom period of the Song Dynasty. Pagodas were built in the temple. The large pagoda was built first, and the small pagodas in the south and north were built later. Hence, the pagodas are named after the temple. The magnificent temples of the original temple were destroyed during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty. Only the three pagodas remain. The current Chongsheng Temple was rebuilt in 2005.
Stone lions at the gate of the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple
According to records, when the three pagodas were built, “7.7 million craftsmen were employed, more than 40,000 taels of gold were consumed, and it took eight years to complete the construction.”
Even today, we are still amazed by the majestic and magnificent Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple.
Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple
The three pagodas are neatly arranged, well-preserved, and their appearances are coordinated with each other. The large pagoda leads the two small pagodas, highlighting its main position while also setting off the exquisite and elegant small pagodas. The small pagodas follow closely behind the large pagoda, setting off its tallness and majesty. The three pagodas form a tripod-like shape, towering into the blue sky, and are the most magnificent group of pagodas in southern China.
Qianxun Pagoda with “Forever Guarding the Mountains and Rivers” engraved
The large pagoda in the middle is called the Qianxun Pagoda. “Qianxun” describes the height of the main pagoda. The actual height of the Qianxun Pagoda is 69.13 meters. It was built during the Nanzhao Kingdom period of the Tang Dynasty (833 – 840 AD). It is a square multi-eaved hollow brick pagoda with 16 levels. There is a wooden ladder spiraling up inside the pagoda. The pagoda body is spindle-shaped with smooth lines, belonging to the typical architectural style of the Tang Dynasty. The representative of the existing multi-eaved pagodas of the Tang Dynasty also includes the Small Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi’an.
The pagoda is coated with white lime. On each side of each level, there are niches. Opposite niches hold Buddha statues, and the other two niches are window openings. The inner wall of the pagoda body is vertically connected from top to bottom. One can reach the top floor by following the ladder and enjoy the panorama of the ancient city of Dali through the lookout holes.
On the screen wall in front of the pagoda are the four characters “Forever Guarding the Mountains and Rivers” written by Mu Shijie, the grandson of Mu Ying, the Duke of Qian in the Ming Dynasty. Each character is 1.7 meters high. It is said that there are many floods in the Dali area. To control floods, one must first control dragons. But dragons are only afraid of rocs. Therefore, as long as the pagoda and the roc gold-winged bird on the pagoda exist, dragons dare not do evil, and there are few floods.
However, to protect the historical sites, the inside of the pagoda is basically not open to the public now.
South small pagoda
The two small pagodas in the south and north have conical outlines and are typical of the architectural style of the Song Dynasty. They were built during the period of Duan Zhengyan and Duan Zhengxing of the Dali Kingdom (1108 – 1172 AD). The two small pagodas are 97 meters apart. Each pagoda is 42.19 meters high. They are octagonal pavilion-style brick pagodas with 10 levels. On each eaves level, there are corbels, flat seats, and niches of various shapes imitating wooden architecture. The pagoda body has reliefs of Buddha statues, lotuses, vases, etc., which are different on each level.
North small pagoda
The two small pagodas are both 70 meters away from the large pagoda. The three pagodas are distributed in an isosceles triangle.
Not only are the structures and appearances of the two pagodas in the south and north mostly the same, but they also lean towards each other. The south pagoda leans 18° towards the northwest, and the north pagoda leans 12° towards the southwest. According to the record that “the two side pagodas lean inward like wings,” they were already leaning pagodas more than 400 years ago.
The three pagodas and the distant Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake complement each other, embellishing the historical charm of the ancient city of Dali. Despite experiencing thousands of years of weathering and many major earthquakes, they are still intact.
This is the most beautiful scenic line in Dali.
Behind the three pagodas are a series of restored ancient buildings. They cover a large area and are of large scale, making them the best accompaniment to the three pagodas.
Hall of the Giant Bell of Jianji of Nanzhao
This is the Hall of the Giant Bell of Jianji of Nanzhao. The Giant Bell of Jianji has been recast, reproducing the scene of “The shadows of the three pagodas in the eternal sky and the bell of a tower in the wind and rain of all heavens.” “Nanzhao” is the name of the country, and “Jianji” is the era name. The current giant bell was recast in 1997. It is 3.86 meters high, has a diameter of 2.138 meters, and weighs 16.295 tons. It is the largest bell in Yunnan Province.
Hall of the Rain Copper Avalokitesvara
This is the Hall of the Rain Copper Avalokitesvara rebuilt on the original site and expanded. It is 29.99 meters high and has a construction area of 4,384 square meters.
Statue of the Rain Copper Avalokitesvara
In the middle of the hall, on a 2.2-meter-high white marble base, there is an 1.8-meter-high gilt copper lotus seat. Standing on the lotus seat is an 8.6-meter-high gilt copper Rain Copper Avalokitesvara. The recast Rain Copper Avalokitesvara is carefully replicated according to the remaining photos from the late Qing Dynasty and weighs 11 tons. With a kind and gentle female face and a sturdy and tall male body, it is a statue of Avalokitesvara during the transition period from male Avalokitesvara to female Avalokitesvara in the middle and late periods of Nanzhao.
On the second floor of the Hall of the Rain Copper Avalokitesvara, two rare scroll replicas are displayed. One is “The Illustrated History of the Nanzhao Kingdom,” and the other is “The Painting of Buddhist Images by Zhang Shengwen, a Painter of the Dali Kingdom.”
The Rain Copper Avalokitesvara statue, the Giant Bell of Jianji, and the three pagodas are the three most important of the five major treasures of Chongsheng Temple. (The other two major treasures are the golden statues of the three saints and the plaque “Buddha Capital”).
Further back is the famous Chongsheng Temple.
The original Chongsheng Temple was to the west of the three pagodas, on the side facing Cangshan Mountain. Its mountain gate is about 120 meters away from the main pagoda of the three pagodas. The new Chongsheng Temple was completed in April 2005 after large-scale restoration and reconstruction, ending the nearly century-long history of “having pagodas but no temple” of the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple and forming a beautiful scene of pagodas and temples complementing each other.
New Chongsheng Temple
Chongsheng Temple is the royal temple of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms. In history, nine Dali emperors became monks in Chongsheng Temple. In Jin Yong’s martial arts novel “The Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils,” it is called “Tianlong Temple.”
The entire antique building complex covers an area of 600 mu and has a construction area of 20,080 square meters.
Due to the flourishing of Buddhism during the Dali Kingdom period, Dali Kingdom was also known as the “Fragrant Buddha Kingdom.” At that time, Chongsheng Temple was the center of Buddhist culture in the entire Dali Kingdom and even in the entire Southeast Asia. Therefore, it was called the “Buddha Capital.”
Mountain gate of Chongsheng Temple
Therefore, we can see the golden plaque of “Buddha Capital” on the mountain gate of Chongsheng Temple.
The main structure of the buildings in the temple is mainly steel-concrete structure. The corbels, doors, windows, and detailed decorations are exquisitely carved from high-quality Toona sinensis wood. The central axis buildings adopt the highest specification of golden dragon and phoenix and seal script colors. The entire building undulates, is well-arranged, resplendent, majestic, and yet without losing national characteristics.
On the central axis are successively built: mountain gate, Heavenly Kings Hall, Maitreya Hall, Eleven-Faced Avalokitesvara Hall, Mahavira Hall, Achuoye Avalokitesvara Pavilion, Shanhai Grand View Stone Archway, and Wanghai Tower.
Heavenly Kings Hall.
The Heavenly Kings Hall is a five-bay single-eaved hip roof imitating the Ming Dynasty. It adopts the solemn golden dragon and phoenix and seal script colors. In the middle, there is a Mahakala god statue 5.7 meters high. On both sides, there are four guardian heavenly kings statues 5 meters high.
Maitreya Hall
This god statue is relatively unique. It is all black, holds a treasure staff, and has a rosary of skulls hanging obliquely. It is very similar to Sha Wujing.
Slowly passing through the Maitreya Hall and Avalokitesvara Hall. From these halls, it can be seen that the architectural style of the new Chongsheng Temple is more inclined to the delicate painted decorations of the Qing Dynasty.
Eleven-Faced Avalokitesvara Hall
The Mahavira Hall imitates the Taihe Hall of the Forbidden City in Beijing. It is a double-eaved nine-bay hall in the Qing Dynasty style. It has three terraces. The hall is 51.7 meters wide and 26 meters high. Due to the terrain, it is high and overlooking, appearing very spectacular.
On the eighteen lattice doors of the hall are engraved 18 patterns of “the story of the Buddha himself.”
Mahavira Hall
Inside the hall, the re-cast golden bodies of the Huayan Three Saints are enshrined, with majestic appearances.
Behind the Mahavira Hall is the Achuoye Avalokitesvara Pavilion. Achuoye Avalokitesvara is the “sacred” Avalokitesvara. The saint worshipped by Chongsheng Temple is Achuoye Avalokitesvara.
Finally, there is a Wanghai Tower from which one can overlook the three pagodas and the panoramic view of Cangshan and Erhai.
The new Chongsheng Temple is very large and beautifully repaired. But our eyes always involuntarily look at the majestic three pagodas…
Achuoye Avalokitesvara Pavilion
In addition, on the square in front of the main gate of Chongsheng Temple, there is a two-sided statue of the roc gold-winged bird with a height of 6.9 meters. It is created based on the gold-winged bird unearthed from the three pagodas. The roc gold-winged bird is one of the “Eight Divisions of Heavenly Dragons.” It is said that it can eat three thousand dragons a day and can suppress floods. Therefore, the pagodas in the Dali area are often decorated with gold-winged birds.
Statue of the roc gold-winged bird
In general, the entire architecture, paintings, and sculptures of the new Chongsheng Temple are integrated with the fresh and beautiful greenery and landscaping inside the temple and the dazzling light art, creating a strong and solemn Buddhist atmosphere. It can be regarded as a model of modern Buddhist temples.
The three pagodas are still the three pagodas of the Tang and Song Dynasties, but Chongsheng Temple is already a modern temple. This is the vicissitudes of time and the changes of things.
The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple are one of the oldest and most majestic buildings in southern China. They are a symbol of the “famous city of literature” of Dali City and also a symbol of the ancient history and culture of Yunnan Province.
General time required: 2 hours. Reference price: 75.0 yuan. Opening hours: 07:30 – 18:30. The specific business status is subject to the opening situation on that day.
Special reminder
1. The scenic area is 7 kilometers around. If you want to save energy, you can take an electric car at the “scenic area entrance” to the “Mahavira Hall of Chongsheng Temple” and visit from the inside to the outside along the central axis to avoid climbing uphill all the way.
2. The highest building in the temple – Wanghai Tower, can overlook Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake.
Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple.
3. The reflection shooting locations of the Three Pagodas scenic area are one at Tianlong Pond at the south gate and one at Juying Pond on the northwest side of the three pagodas.（Travel Guide to the Three Towers of Dali, China）
Further reading：Hidden Treasures at the Tower Spire
For a long time, there has been a local legend that the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple contain the treasures of the Dali Kingdom and the Buddhist treasure “Buddha’s tooth relic.” The “Buddha’s tooth relic” is placed in a precious case shrouded in colorful rays. In the Qianxun Pagoda, there used to be a wooden staircase leading to the top of the tower. Later, the staircase was removed and the ancient tower was sealed. No one has climbed to the top of the tower in a thousand years. Therefore, this legend has not been confirmed.
Song Dynasty Dali Kingdom Silver Gilded with Beads Golden Winged Bird
In 1978, cultural relic workers in Yunnan Province received instructions from their superiors: repair the ancient tower and conduct a comprehensive archaeological exploration at the same time. According to the repair practice of ancient towers in the Tang Dynasty, there is generally a underground palace at the bottom of the tower, and cultural relics are hidden in the underground palace. But in the Qianxun Pagoda, the archaeological team dug for more than 10 days and dug more than 2 meters deep without finding the underground palace. Later, the archaeological team learned through interviews that there is a local tradition of hiding treasures at the top of the tower. According to legend, someone once climbed to the top of the tower by hand and saw that a copper box at the top had been opened and there was nothing inside.
The archaeological team immediately set up scaffolding. After climbing to the top of the tower, they saw swarms of mosquitoes and overgrown weeds. Among the weeds, a dark and narrow passage opening was exposed. The team members boldly reached into the “black hole” and groped. Surprisingly, they found a ritual object. This made them 确信 that there were really treasures at the top of the tower. After excavation, the archaeological team finally took out more than 680 precious cultural relics from the Nanzhao Kingdom and Dali Kingdom periods from the top of the tower, including metal products, handicrafts, jewels, and Chinese herbal medicines. This provides valuable physical materials for studying the social politics, economy, culture, and religious art on the frontiers of Yunnan during the Tang and Song dynasties and has extremely important historical and artistic value.
Five-Color Bright Relic Tower
Among these cultural relics, a strange “iron lump” attracted people’s attention. It is 19 centimeters high. The base is made of round gilded copper. There is a circle of bead patterns decorated on the waist. The surface is pitch-black, but there is something remarkable inside. When opened in sequence from the outside to the inside, there are copper, silver, gold, and amber tower molds. The entire “tower within a tower” presents five colors, confirming the statement of “a precious case shrouded in colorful rays.” Archaeologists are 确信 that this is the precious case for holding the relics. Regrettably, no relics were found in the tower mold. Even so, the “Five-Color Bright Relic Tower” is also an extremely precious cultural relic and is now collected in the Yunnan Provincial Museum.